I’m back! Apologies ladies and gentlemen my internet has been poor to the point of non-existant recently, which makes it very hard to upload properly with photos. But back to some travels:
I’m going to keep these two days short & sweet as I’m bored of writing about Buenos Aires…
Wednesday: Central BA & the Milonga
Another day, another walking tour (can you tell I am a fan?). I’d seen most of the buildings in my wanderings around but wanted to understand their meaning and history, and this tour took us straight along ave de Mayo, from Congress on one side to Plaza del Mayo on the other, i.e. the epicentre of Buenos Aires. I won’t bore you with more history babble but have some generic stock photos of buildings instead:
The evening deserves a special mention however; the meldita Milonga. My first proper night out in BA to sample some of its delicious Tango culture and the Milonga’s are the perfect place to do this, being dancehalls where the locals go to strut their stuff.
The scene: a dusky jazz type bar, tables around a central raised stage and a bar at the far side, all illuminated by red and moody lighting. The girls perch around the stage, on the tables or stools, dressed to dance (with mandatory high heels) while the men prowl around selecting their dance partners. It sounds like a sleazy hook up show but dancing is the aim of the game here, and it’s taken very seriously. This is above all an exhibition; a chance to show off your moves to a fascinated and voyeuristic crowd, and probably compete with your rivals.
I have to admit, it was absolutely epic. While this was a pretty touristy Milonga, as the evening wore on the tourists dispersed and the more experienced locals took to the floor, it became a mesmerizing scene of couples performing sultry moves to the rhythmic and melancholic tango music. Oh to belong.
But I was content to watch from the sidelines, bottle(s) of red wine to hand. That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy being asked to dance by some of the (misguided) young men though. While we swirled around for a couple of minutes, it’s clear that the dancefloor is the domain of the tango-ists. We let them be.
Thursday: Ecological reserve
Mannnnn, why did I drink those 2 bottles of red wine yesterday??? And what time did we get back? Must have been after 2am I think, ughhhhhh.
I wasn’t up for much today – so I decided just to have a little walk to clear my head around the ecological nature reserve down the road, and get out of the bustling city for a while.
I found Puerto Madero, the newest neighbourhood in BA, marked by a lovely canalside development to the east of the city
FUN FACT TIME: Puerto Madero replaced the old port (the one in La Boca) in 1892, the wealthy families having felt that BA, in it’s new prosperous state, should have a port to match. So a brand sparkling new port was built with all the glitz and glam, to boost the city’s trade and impress all the traders arriving into the city. It lasted approx 15 years before being replaced, as it’s design was so poor that it could ill handle the volume of ships. The canal was too narrow and the waters too shallow for ships to birth in. So instead another new port was built to the north of the city, and this became BA’s newest barrio.
Heres a summary of what I did: walk walk, take photo, walk some more, appreciate building/tree, fight wave of nausea, walk some more.
Tomorrow: To Uruguay
See you in a few days no doubt!